19th July 2021

Design

To improve my toile further I added an extra pleat to the sleeve, altered the shape of the holder seam back to the original position and added a grown on smocked hem. I used nylon fabric to create the toile as its more similar that calico to my final fabric. The fabric I chose is a black nylon similar to the one I used to make a nylon sleeve sample. Many of the brands I selected as competitors create black garments as it’s a timeless colour which goes with many things. This means the garment will have longevity and mote likely to be kept for a long time or passed on to others.

When improving my toile I chose to do it by hand as this is what I find easier. Creating more complicated patterns on LECTRA is a skill I still need to improve on. I would be able to do it, but it would take me a lot longer than by hand. With more practice this way of pattern cutting would be quicker, it’s also better for the environment as it reduces waste. This mean pattern cutting digitally is less expensive than by hand. Reducing the cost of production at this stage would mean that the artisans who manufacture the hand smocked jacket could be fairly paid. By working with artisans brands can create long term partnerships, giving credit to the makers. Helping customers understand what goes into making a garment could help people appreciate and value them more.

The smocking technique I chose is English smoking and originated in Devon, therefore my initial idea is that the artisans I chose would be local (British). If this was the case, I would also ensure the whole design and manufacture process would be done in the UK to reduce carbon emissions and support local communities. The fabric I chose isn’t sustainable but if I was to mass produce my garment I would work with a local manufacture to create a sustainable nylon fabric, perhaps made from recycled materials. Nylon also used less water than some other fabrics.

The lining I chose is cotton in a bright pink/red colour inspired by my research images. This bright colour makes the inside of the garment special and interesting unlike the simple black colour of the outside. By being a bright happy colour it could bring the wearer joy and helps the garment feel more luxurious. The soft cotton fabric also shows that thought has been put into the inside not just the outside. If this was mass produced, I would use organic cotton as it’s better for the environment as pesticides aren’t used

When I talk about mass produced I don’t mean that I would produce lots of garments, instead I would produce around 500 garments which is called small production. I listened to a podcast by the brand Sabinna on the pros and cons of local and small-scale production.

The key advantages were;

- Better control over product

- Flexible with customer demand

- Direct relationship with manufacturer

- Less waste

- Low minimum order quantity

- Less risk because of small quantities

- Contribution to local economy

The disadvantages were;

- High production cost per item

- Can be more difficult to find skilled workers

- Challenging to scale small business

- More time consuming

But when I look at the pros and cons, I still believe small scale is better for sustainability as it benefits the planet, people and local economy.