Design
Last week I experimented with creating a bodice and longer sleeve from a single piece of fabric. After playing around with the fabric on a mannequin I figured out that I would need a square of fabric that I fold in half then sew horizontal at the fold point for the bodice and vertical for the sleeves. At first I was going to make the sample full scale but decide to do it half scale as I wasn’t sure if it would work. I don’t normally do this as the smocking or shirring doesn’t act in the same way when scaled up or down, so wouldn’t give an accurate representation of a full-scale sample when made half scale. But because I just wanted to see if it’s possible to create a full sleeve shape and bodice in one the mini mannequin was fine. The sample turned out better than expected so next I’m going to make it in full scale using a more unusual smocking or shirring technique.
This week I began to make the full scaled sample but after creating the first row of shirring realised I hadn’t positioned it correctly. Rather than starting again I continued working with the sample on the mannequin to come up with more silhouette ideas. I place the sample around the waist and going from under the arm so the seam would run from the shoulder to wrist above the arm. There was a lot of bulk under the arm which I want to shirr in some way, for that reason I trialed ideas first by sewing large gathering stitches at different potions which would be both flattering and comfortable. I also tried placing the shirring below the hips as many of the modern smocked dresses I researched had this silhouette, perhaps making the garment more contemporary. Placing the mini simple of this shirring technique over the gathered sections was a way to visualise what the garment would look like. I’m still undecided were I want to place the shirring but both on the shoulder and waist appeared to be the most successful for reducing bulk and creating a good silhouette.
