29th March 2021

Design

Looking back at my smocking samples and stand work I can see that most of my ideas are for sleeves. The excess fabric going onto the bodice created some interesting shapes which my tutor pointed out could inspire unusual seam ideas. Therefore, I started to experiment on the stand and research examples of different sleeve. This idea is similar to the re-design through re-cut project I’ve done previously. Meaning I could development my knowledge of removing/moving darts within this current project. To progress my ideas further I want to look at silhouette/smocking ideas for other parts of the body and se how they could fit together with the sleeves. My research has driven me towards blouses or dresses, so these are the types of garnets I’m going to create. I could make one complete garment and several sleeve samples perhaps.

By researching different brands for my market report I have found it extremely helpful to see what key features are similar and that I should aim for to meet the same customer/market. For example, the main colours are black and white with 1-3 bright accent colours, this creates a more luxurious appearance and helps the garments have longevity. However, there are lots of other small independent brands with lower price points that have a similar style to what I want to create. A lot of these brands also take sustainability into consideration much more than the ready to wear brands I researched for my comparison table. I think I would like to research mor about these brands to decide if this is the market I would rather fit into or not. It could also help with the sustainability side as only one of the brands I researched appeared to consider suitability which shocked me as I always assume that sustainability is a key part when starting a contemporary brand (all the brands are newish).

I’ve always been unsure whether I want to aim for a career within ready to wear, upper high street or small independent brands (upper high street prices). I’ve had limited experience interning within a ready to wear brand and enjoyed how experimental it was, the way everyone was specialized in something but helped out with everything (pattern cutting, textile design, clothes, shoes, accessories, shop installations) and the small family like team dynamic. However, it was extremely intense, long hours and from what I’ve heard not the best paid after graduating. This was also only the experience of one company and I’m sure each one is completely different. When I think of an upper high street brand I feel like the experimentation is more limited and you stick to a specific jobs role like designing tops for example, but maybe the pay is a bit better and the hours are long but not as crazy. The clothes are also more achievable for customers and fit within everyday lifestyles, whilst ready-to-wear are often more statement trends and unaffordable for many. For small independent brands I can imagine the pay isn’t good but you get more of a say in the design process and the direction of the brand. These brands also seem to be better at sustainability as it’s a core part of their brand from the beginning. But I can’t say for sure if these beliefs are true. I need to carry out some research and ask tutors, guest lecturers etc. about their experiences to improve my understanding.

Research

After feedback about my initial essay plan, I need to figure out which specific topics are most relevant to my current practice. I think the topics most relevant are the aesthetic, hand crafts/craftmanship and 19th century garments (pattern cutting/silhouette). Furthermore, as well as exploring changes in production methods during the Victorian/Edwardian era, I could also analyse modern day production methods and developments. This would link to my research of the pros and cons of technology within craft/fashion in regards to sustainability/cost in my FMP.

Handcraft and production is one of the key topics which I don’t know much about and need to explore further, especially within contemporary design and slow fashion. Thinking about how handcraft can be made more achievable for upper high street brands and not just couture of ready to wear is another area to research more. Perhaps in terms of how technology could help reduce the cost and time of production. Whilst still keeping sustainability in mind.

Different research methods are other things which I need to spend time on, as I haven’t really thought much about different ways of researching before. Maybe writing out each type of method and a quick summary of each will help me understand the methods better. This way I can figure out which ones are most suitable for my research. When carrying out research I need to look at a variety of resources too, such as books, articles, magazines, videos, documentaries, archives ….. One comment to keep in mind is outline the methods I’m using and how it has developed in response to my understanding and application of smocking. For example, the denotation of the garment in how it’s been constructed.