Design
I’ve spent a long time trying to figure out how to reduce bulk on the shirring sample I did last week but I’m struggling to do it without creating a seam to remove some of the fabric. I’m also not liking the look of the sample so will start something else and go back to it later. Instead, I’ve gone back to some collage ideas I did with an 1830s dress sleeve and am going to try and recreate the sleeve using smocking and shirring. Rather than using simple shapes which was initially my ideas, I’m going to try using regular blocks instead as I’m struggling to create shapes which fit well on the body with squares and rectangles.
I really like the samples I’ve created and particularly the smocked one with layered materials. I’ve been using toile over the top of the calico after being inspired by a regency garment which had a sheer bodice over a dress. Normally I like to use printed fabric, but with the smocking/shirring it would be too much as distract from the technique. By using layers of materials it creates darker shades where its dense and lighter shades in less dense areas. Next, I would like to try them on the stand and see how they look if I turn them upside down or scrunch them up to create more voluminous shapes.
I’ve experimented with the samples on the stand and would like to develop the smocked sleeve sample further by turning the pattern upside down and adding a lining, so it keeps a voluminous shape. I could digitize my previous pattern and alter it on Lectra to create the new pattern. This will hopefully be quicker than doing it manually as well as help reduce paper waste.
To continue this idea I would also like to think more about the neckline of the garment and how to create a dropped sleeve. The dresses of the regency period would be great to research further as they have wide necklines which could compliment this raglan shape.