28th September 2020

Design

After developing pattern cutting samples based on the advancement flap I played around with ideas on a mini mannequin. It was challenging to come up with full garment ideas, so switched to the normal mannequin to develop detail ideas instead. From this I came up with the idea of a waist fastening. Then after talking through ideas with my tutor I decided to develop the stand work into a kimono style jacket. To gain a better understanding of the kimono shape I researched various kimonos from traditional/modern Japan and the 1920s. The V&A also has an exhibition on kimonos but due to the current situation I decided not to go, but look at the resources/collection online instead. This inspired me to draw some ideas. The waist detail only on the front was a bit boring so I thought about adding it to the back too. Then pushed this idea further by coming up with sleeve details incorporating the cutting and creating a pattern/toile.

The toile didn’t turn out as I wanted it too, but I suppose you make a toile to see what needs amending. The waist detail needs to be moved away from the centre and the sleeve detail to the back of the sleeve. I do like the pocket idea though which came out of not pleating the excess fabric on the bottom front. I will improve my pattern in the next workshop.

---

This week I watched the Fenty fashion show which was amazing. It really made me reflect on inclusivity within the fashion industry. Making me question how I can use my work to send a positive message and be inclusive to all. The show included women, men of all shapes, ethnicities, sizes and sexualities. It was empowering and I like how the Fenty shows are disrupting the industry by breaking out of the traditional mould. Incorporating dance and music alone side the fashion to build a strong brand.

---

Research

After researching fast fashion vs slow fashion and watching the misguided documentaries I gained a better understanding of the industry. The documentary showed a insight into fast fashion, but was bias towards Missguided. I found it interesting how the owner of the brand didn’t appear to have any interest in design at all. For him it’s about being on top and making lots of money. They spoke about their marketing methods of using influencers to advertise the brand. Although I don’t like the brand I do like there use of influencers as it creates lots of opportunities for women to build their own brands/businesses online. However this fuels the customers into needing the newest trends. This demand for newness is why I believe sustainable fast fashion isn’t possible under the current model. These brands have built their business firmly on the idea of selling lots of cheap clothing quickly. Meaning even though these big businesses may want to change, it will take a lot to change direction. But I believe the customer is beginning to create a demand for more sustainable fast fashion with ASOS, Topshop and H&M starting to incorporate sustainable collections and products. But until the customers demand for sustainable fashion is stronger than the want for affordable, new pieces every few days these companies will never be fully sustainable.