30th November 2020

Design

This week I finished the base of my jacket and presented my work. I still get super nervous when presenting my work as I panic a bit and can't think what to say, that's why I usually read exactly what I've wrote from a notebook. So, to help I planned and practiced what I was going to say beforehand, with images on the slides to remind me. I will definitely do this more in the future rather than reading off a piece of paper as I know this can be a bit boring and not as engaging. The feedback on my work was helpful as I hadn't realised the neckline was too big for the type of collar I planned on doing. This means I need to bring in the neck a bit more and create a flat collar. Therefore, in the future I need to decide on the collar at an earlier stage so that the neckline is correct. We also discussed how the chest pocket may be too much on top of the seam detail on the bust, so I don’t think I will add this anymore. Lining is another thing I need to add, but I'll have to research in a few books first about how to do it as I can't remember. To insert a lining, I will need to add a back neck facing and cuff facing because I hadn't extended the sleeves for lining originally. This is another example of how I need to look ahead when creating patterns in the future.

Thinking ahead about the projects next year, I would like to develop my drape pattern cutting skills and create dresses/skirts/shirts etc rather than jackets as I’ve made these for the last two projects. Although I love tailoring, I don’t want to be restricted in my knowledge and skills. Once I've completed the course I would like to work for an upper high street or ready to wear brand. I particularly like the style of Simone Rocha and Cecilie Bahnsen but I also like upper high street brands such as Holland Cooper. Simone Rocha and Cecilie Bahnsen have historical references, tailoring and quirky feminine silhouettes. On the other hand Holland Cooper is more heritage/country. Furthermore I love French luxury brands like Saint Laurent, Chanel and Prada. I need to keep these things in mind when designing, but I'm very indecisive on what areas to focus on as my mind changes all the time and I like lots of different styles. In general, I feel I tend to incorporate historical refences, crafts and feminine silhouettes in my work. Working for a bespoke bridal or occasion wear company would also be interesting as I used to work in a Bridal shop and loved how you built a relationship with the client. The garments are special and personal to the bride. However, none of my work really reflects this and it probably too different to the bulk of my work which is flat pattern cutting and tailoring. Hopefully next year I will become clearer on the brands I would like to apply too.

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Research

After doing research in the library, I came across more relaxed tailoring. This made me think about how at the moment during the COVID-19 19 pandemic, we are mainly wearing loungewear. But most loungewear is sporty or pyjama like which I don’t personally feel my best in. Perhaps I could create a tailored loungewear outfit that could be worn both at home and out. It could be more professional looking and smart so would be great for zoom meetings. Emotional fashion is another area I looked into more and would like to include. The tailored loungewear could help the wearer feel confident, bring joy and comfort. Positive fashion would also fit into this project. After the lecture and seminar on positive fashion I learned that it encompasses design which is ethical, sustainable and enhances/aids the wearer in some way. Doing further research I found out that the British fashion council has a positive fashion logo which is awarded to brands which produce positive fashion, they name the key areas as having a positive effect on the environment, people and craft. Therefore, I need to do some further research on these areas, in particular the environment as I'm interested in preserving nature such as the oceans and rainforests. Re-watching the sustainability lecture and looking up the UN sustainable development goals would be a great place to start. Later in the week I looked more into tailoring and the Garconne look which was a boyish style that appeared in the 1920s by designers such as Coco Chanel and Jean Patou. Then I researched about the tuxedo and smoking jacket which was introduced into womenswear by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1960s (see image below). Armani also created elegant, relaxed and comfortable business attire which was achieved by softening and reducing the internal structure. If I was to create a questionnaire or carry out an interview, I could ask what peoples style gas been during the pandemic, if their approach to fashion has changed and how they feel in the clothes.